Caring for indoor pachira flower. Pakhira care at home watering soil pruning reproduction. Caring for pachira at home

Indoor trees are especially attractive, one such plant being the pachira. Although in nature it reaches impressive sizes, indoors it is quite possible to restrain its growth and form it as a bonsai or a small upright tree, and if desired, actually grow a real tall tree (up to three meters in height). An exotic pachira, resembling a miniature baobab, will undoubtedly become the highlight of the interior, and caring for the plant is so simple that even an inexperienced gardener can handle it.

Features of the pachira habitat and description of the plant’s appearance

Pachira, a member of the Bombax family, is found naturally along the shores of lakes and estuaries in the tropical forests of South and Central America, particularly Mexico, Brazil and Peru.

Pachira has a magnificent crown, thanks to which the plant began to be grown indoors for interior decoration. The leaf blades on long petioles have a very beautiful emerald color and a complex “finger” shape.

The leaf is divided into several segments, which are arranged symmetrically and connect at the petiole. The surface of the leaves, the size of which in the wild reaches 40 cm, is glossy. Outwardly, they resemble a chestnut, which is why pachira is often popularly called Guiana or Malabar chestnut.

Pachira is a "bottle tree". At the bottom of the trunk there is a thick caudex (thickening). During the rainy season, the plant stores moisture and nutrients in the cavity between the wood and the bark, causing the trunk to swell, taking on an unusual bottle-like shape.

Young shoots of pachira are very flexible; flower growers use this feature to give the tree the desired shape. Three or four plants are planted in a container, the lower leaves are cut off, the stems are braided or twisted into a rope. Pachira also makes a very impressive bonsai (thanks to its thick bottle-shaped caudex and protruding roots).

Another feature of pachira is the system of so-called walking roots, characteristic of trees growing in swampy areas. The roots protrude above the surface of the soil, which helps the pachira to escape from waterlogging and rotting.

Pachira received its name thanks to Jean Baptiste Christian Oblet, a researcher of South American fauna and flora. Translated from French, "pahira" literally means "fat girl."

The flowering of pachira is very spectacular. It has rather large tubular flowers, collected in paniculate inflorescences. They reach 35 cm in diameter and about 15 cm in length.

Flower coloring different types Pachira can vary from white to scarlet. They may have a cream, greenish or pale pink tint. A whole bouquet of stamens grows in the center, thanks to which the flower looks airy. The aroma of pachira is also delicious, it has a pleasant vanilla scent.

Unfortunately, flowering of pachira “in captivity” is an extremely rare event; it can only be achieved in a greenhouse.

The fruits of the tree are elongated berries with a brown, hard skin. They are quite large, reaching 25 cm in length. South American aborigines eat them. The fruits are used to make bread and a drink that tastes like cocoa.

Another nickname for pachira is “money tree”. It is believed that the plant helps improve the financial situation of its owner. Believing in this or not is a personal matter for everyone, but the fact that pachira purifies the air in the room, saturating it with oxygen and ozone is a proven fact.

Home flowers: pachira - video

Species popular in home gardening

About twenty species of pachira grow under natural conditions. However, in the collections of flower growers, only one is usually found - aquatic pachira, since it is the most unpretentious tree. Silver and round-leaved pachira are grown in greenhouse conditions.

  1. Pachira aquatica (aquatica) grows up to three meters in height, forming a luxurious crown with a diameter of 1.5 m. It blooms with white or pale yellow flowers.
  2. A distinctive feature of silver pachira is the stripes on the leaf blades, which shine silver in the sun and form an expressive pattern.
  3. Pachira rotundifolia has round leaves, slightly pointed towards the tip. The shoots in natural conditions are thin and spread along the ground. Indoors, this type of pachira can be grown as a hanging plant.

Pakhira in the photo

Pachira trunks are so flexible at a young age that they can be braided. Pachira aquatic is most often used in indoor floriculture. Thanks to the unusual shape of the trunk and “walking” roots, you can quickly form a spectacular bonsai from pachira.

Conditions for growing pachira - table

Conditions Recommendations
Light Lighting for pachira needs to be bright, but diffused; the tree can easily withstand intense sunlight, but for a short time, in the future, burns may occur on the leaves. A shady place is also not suitable for pachira; it stops growing, the stems become thinner, and the foliage loses its color. An east-facing window is best suited for placement. In autumn and winter, additional illumination with fluorescent lamps is required.
Temperature Pakhira loves warmth. The optimal temperature for it will be from +22 to +25 ºС; in the autumn-winter period, in order to arrange a period of relative rest, the temperature can be reduced to approximately +18 ºС. The plant does not tolerate cold and drafts; at +15 ºС its roots and caudex begin to rot.
Air humidity Pachira is moisture-loving; for excellent vegetation it needs frequent spraying. Water should be sprayed around the tree, being careful not to get moisture on the trunk. The plant can also tolerate a little dry air (usual indoors), but in humid conditions the pachira feels much more comfortable.

The most best time The time for planting and replanting pachira is the beginning of spring (March - April). At this time, the tree begins active growth after a period of dormancy. For young specimens (up to 5 years), transplantation is an annual procedure, and adult pachyras are transplanted less frequently, every three years.

The roots of the tree are located close to the surface, so the container for the pachira is chosen to be wide and not too deep. The capacity should be equal to the volume of the root system. A small pot will help curb rapid growth, but in a pot that is too deep, the pachira will feel unwell and begin to get sick.

For each subsequent replanting procedure, choose a flower pot that is approximately 4–5 cm larger than the previous one.

For planting pachira, a ready-made substrate for dracaenas or palm trees is suitable. The plant does not require nutritious soil; it thrives on soils that are quite poor in composition, while the air and moisture permeability of the soil is of great importance. Before planting, the soil must be disinfected with a pink solution of potassium permanganate (this is a measure to prevent fungal diseases, which quite often plague pachira).

Purchased soil will help out inexperienced or busy gardeners. If you want to prepare the soil mixture yourself, you should take:

  • compost or humus (2 parts);
  • peat (1 part);
  • sand (1 part);
  • vermiculite (1 part).

Pachira transplant - step-by-step description of the process

  1. Pachira does not tolerate stagnant water, so it simply needs excellent drainage. Place expanded clay or gravel on the bottom of the flowerpot in a layer of at least 5 cm.
  2. Place a layer of prepared soil on top (about half the container). It should be watered moderately with settled water.
  3. Remove the pachira from the old flowerpot by gently pressing on its walls. Lightly shake off the earthen lump; there is no need to rinse or clean the soil from the roots.
  4. Place the tree in a new flowerpot, fill the gaps with substrate, periodically lightly tamping it down. You can decorate the top with multi-colored pebbles, which will not only serve as a decorative element, but also prevent the rapid evaporation of moisture from the container with pachira.
  5. Water the transplanted tree, taking into account that water should not get on the trunk, and place it in its original place.

Pakhira is quite moisture-loving, but you shouldn’t overwater it, because if it’s too damp, the tree trunk can begin to rot. Likewise, there is no need to allow the soil to dry out completely. Of course, pachira can store moisture in the caudex to provide itself with drink and nutrition, but it grows much better when the substrate is evenly moistened.

Important! During the period of active growth, moisten the soil approximately once every 2-3 days. In winter, the number and volume of watering should be halved.

Water the pakhira in a special way, using a watering can with a long narrow spout. Pour water along the diameter of the pot, being careful not to get on the trunk, and especially on its base. Another way is humidification through a tray.

Fertilizing - how and what to fertilize a flower depending on the season

From April to August, fertilize with liquid complex fertilizer for decorative foliage plants. Bona Forte or Kemira Lux preparations, which contain all the macro- and microelements required by the flower in an optimal ratio, give a good effect.

The tree responds very well to the introduction of nutrients, growth accelerates, the leaves become shiny and brightly colored.

From time to time, you can apply foliar feeding, for which you need to dilute the preparations in half the dose and spray the leaves with a spray bottle. With the onset of autumn, fertilizing should be completely stopped.

Trimming

Pachira pruning is a very important event that must be carried out according to all the rules:

  • firstly, the purpose of the procedure is to control the growth of the tree;
  • secondly, with the help of pruning you can get a dense crown of the desired shape (in the form of a ball or ellipse).

The best time for the procedure is the end of February - beginning of March.

  1. Select the shoots that you think need to be shortened and cut them off with a sharp, clean knife as close to the trunk as possible.
  2. Cover sections larger than 1 cm in diameter with garden varnish.
  3. In about two weeks, new branches will appear. Pinch their ends.

Young specimens of pachira have rather flexible stems. This feature is used to obtain an ornamental plant with an unusually shaped trunk. The simplest thing is to curl them into a spiral.

  1. Plant two plants in one container.
  2. Remove all leaves, exposing the trunk.
  3. Intertwine the pakhirs and secure the trunks with twine. Do this not too tightly so that moisture can circulate freely through the shoots.

The trunk is formed in a similar way with a pigtail. Plant three or four plants in a flower pot and braid them into a regular braid, securing the structure with twine in several places. Over time, the trunks will become woody, become thicker, and the fasteners can be removed.

Possible errors in care and treatment - table

Problem Probable Cause Solution
Excessive watering at low room temperatures. Pakhira does not like dampness.
  1. Adjust the watering mode.
  2. Avoid getting water on the trunk when moistening.
The tips of the leaves dry out. Subsequently, they lose turgor and wither.
  1. Not enough moisture.
  2. Drafts.
  1. Water the pachira as the top layer of soil in the pot dries.
  2. Move the tree to a warm place, away from a window or door.
The leaf blades curl into a tube, and a brown border appears along the edge of the leaf.Pachira is too cold. The plant freezes already at +15 degrees.Adjust the temperature.
The stem becomes thin, the plant practically does not grow, the trunk loses its characteristic bottle shape.Lack of light.Place the pot closer to the window or illuminate the pachira with a fluorescent lamp.
Light-colored spots appear on the leaf blades, after which these areas dry out.Sunburn.Shade the pakhira from too intense lighting with tulle or a sheet of paper.
The leaves are turning yellow.
  1. A trunk that is too deep into the ground.
  2. Lack of nutrients.
  1. Replant the plant in fresh nutrient substrate.
  2. Fertilize with a complex fertilizer.

The most common diseases and pests of pachira - table

Disease or pest Signs How to cure and prevent
Root rot The trunk softens and black spots appear on it.
  1. Remove the tree from the pot, wash the roots and inspect. If many roots turn black, then the pachira died. If only some of them are rotten, cut them off with a clean knife.
  2. In the same way, cut out the black spots on the trunk.
  3. Sprinkle all the sections with crushed activated carbon or coat them with RanNet paste and let them dry during the day.
  4. Plant the pachira in fresh soil treated with a fungicide.
Spider mite The leaf blades become pale, curl and dry out. A thin cobweb is visible on the underside.To prevent its occurrence, spray the leaves frequently. Treat the plant three to four times with any insecticide.
Shchitovka The leaves are covered with dark gray or brown tubercles.Clean the leaves with a soapy sponge, adding a few drops of vegetable oil to it. Wiping the leaf blades has a good effect. ethyl alcohol, but absolutely all scale insects cannot be removed mechanically. Spray the pachira with Actellik solution (10 ml per 1 liter of water).
Thrips Light-colored streaks appear on the leaf blades. The leaves acquire an unnatural silvery sheen and become deformed.Spray the plant with a solution of Aktara, Inta-Vir, Dantop or Iskra. This will help kill the larvae. To get rid of adult thrips, hang fly-catching tape near the pachira.

Photo gallery: diseases and pests dangerous to pachira

Reproduction at home

Pachira propagates by seed and cuttings. Since the tree does not bloom at home, it will not be possible to obtain seeds from it. However, you can purchase planting material in online stores.

Propagation by seeds

Fresh pachira seeds have good germination rate (about 90%), so this propagation method is quite effective.

  1. Fill shallow containers with a soil mixture of peat, coarse sand, perlite (vermiculite) and compost (in equal parts). Level the soil and lightly moisten it.
  2. Spread the seeds over the surface of the substrate, lightly pressing them into the soil. There is no need to fill the top with soil.
  3. Spray the seeds with warm water from a spray bottle and cover the plantings with glass or a bag, creating a greenhouse. Place in a warm place.
  4. Shoots appear in about three weeks. Until this point, ventilate the greenhouse daily, wipe off condensation from the surface of the glass or film, and if necessary, moisten it by spraying the plantings with a spray bottle.
  5. When shoots appear, remove the lid and care for the seedlings (as you would for adult specimens).
  6. After a year, transplant the young pachira to a permanent place.

Rooting cuttings

  1. The time suitable for rooting pachira cuttings is the end of summer. Cut off green, not yet lignified shoots with a “heel”. To do this, separate the branch from the trunk so that a small part of the bark remains at its base.
  2. Powder the sections with crushed activated carbon and leave the planting material to dry for several hours.
  3. Make up a soil mixture for rooting from sand and peat, taken in equal quantities. Moisten the substrate and plant the cuttings in it, deepening their lower part by 2–3 cm. Cover the top of the planting with a transparent glass lid (for example, you can use a regular jar).

    Another way to root pachira cuttings is to place them in warm water, adding a few drops of a root formation stimulator.

  4. Pachira cuttings take root quite quickly. After 1.5 months, the size of the roots will be sufficient to plant them in a permanent place in a regular tree substrate.

Pachira aquatica is one of 24 species of plants of the baobab family under this name. Another name is aquatic pachira. It differs from other species in that its seeds can be eaten. Pachira grows for a long time and lives for many years. Is it possible to grow such a tree at home and how to do it?

Description

This plant is grown as a tree. At the same time, it belongs to succulents because it stores moisture in reserve and stores it in the trunk under the bark. Its barrel resembles a bottle. That's why pachira is called the bottle tree. There are other names: Malabar or Guiana chestnut, which the plant received for the similarity of the fruits and especially the pachira. At home you can grow a specimen up to one and a half meters high. Pachira aquatica, the photo of which is located below, has dark leaves. Their shape is finger-like, they are dense and leathery to the touch. The leaf petioles are long.

The homeland of pachira is the swamps of Mexico. Under natural conditions, Pachira aquatica blooms every year from June to November. The flower is large and can be white, yellow, pink or cream. Its size reaches 12 cm. It has a large number of long stamens. The flowers have a vanilla scent. They are collected in panicle inflorescences. The length of each of them is 35 cm. The plant blooms when there are leaves, although other bottle trees bloom when the leaves have fallen. When grown indoors, it does not bloom.

Pachira aquatica: reproduction

Pachira is propagated by sowing seeds or rooting cuttings.

The seeds that are going to be sown must be from the last harvest, because they quickly lose their viability. They are germinated at high temperatures. It should be no lower than 27 degrees. Such a high temperature is difficult to achieve. You can use bottom heating. The seeds are placed in a wide bowl filled with sand or peat. Seeds are sprinkled on top.

The dishes, covered with glass, are placed on the heating radiator. Periodically, the seeds are sprayed with warm water and left open for some time for ventilation. After a month or a little less, the seeds begin to sprout. But it is not recommended to plant them in pots right away. We need to wait for them to get stronger.

Cuttings are cut closer to autumn, capturing part of the bark. The cutting must have a bud and a leaf. It is immersed in "Kornevin", which promotes the rapid formation of roots. Place them in a container with a substrate and cover with a lid or plastic wrap. For rooting cuttings you also need heat and humidity about 60%. After about a month and a half, roots appear. When they reach about a centimeter in length, they are transplanted into a new pot. In the future, they are cared for as for an adult plant.

Planting pachira

The soil for growing pachira should be slightly acidic and consist of equal parts of leaf and turf soil and river sand. Pieces of coal will prevent rotting of the roots. Broken brick will draw in excess moisture from the soil. Drainage makes up a quarter of the dish. You can buy a special mixture for palm trees in the store. Pachira aquatica grows well in it, the care of which we will consider further.

Plant care

Some gardeners believe that pachira requires special care. Others classify it as a plant that does not require special care. Pachira aquatica is in no hurry to grow; it grows only a few centimeters per year. It begins to branch only after the tree grows large. Before this, it does not have side shoots.

It is recommended to place a young pachira on a window, but not on the south or north. It is better not to install it on the northern pachira, because the lack of light causes the trunk to stretch out and become ugly.

You can install the pachira on a south window for a while, but you need to shade it from the direct rays of the sun at noon. If this is not done, unsightly pale burn spots may form on the leaves.

It is easy to maintain the temperature regime for maintaining the plant in any apartment. It should not be below 16 degrees in winter, and in summer it should not rise above 25 degrees. Do not install the pachira near radiators or other heating devices. But most of all she is afraid of drafts.

Humidity is not of great importance for pachira. It can grow indoors with both dry and fairly humid air. It can be sprayed with warm water a couple of times a month. The sprayer stream should be directed at the leaves, trying not to hit the trunk. Excessive moisture can lead to rotting.

Watering

Pachira aquatica does not need abundant watering. Moreover, it is harmful to her. After all, a tree always has a supply of moisture, and it uses it if necessary. Therefore, you need to water the pachira in a tray, and she will use it herself at the right time. Water when the lump of earth dries well.

For the Pachira aquatica plant, both excess and lack of moisture are harmful. From too frequent watering, its roots rot and it disappears, and if it is not watered enough, the leaves wither and fall off.

Top dressing

Pachira aquatica needs to be fed once a month with complex fertilizer. But you need to do this carefully. Excessive feeding can have a detrimental effect on the condition of the plant. Its roots may burn and disappear.

Plant pruning

Branches are pruned in the spring. In the place where the cut was made, rapid growth of young branches begins, the crown becomes lush. Using pruning, you can shape the crown, giving it the desired shape, most often in the form of a ball.

You can shape the trunk of the pachira so that it looks like a pigtail. To do this, plant three plants in one pot at once and gradually intertwine them with each other. But this is not always possible. Sometimes with this form of cultivation only one trunk develops, while the others or one of them lags behind in development or disappears.

Pachira transplantation

You can speed up the growth of Pachira aquatica. Home care includes transplantation. The first years of life, the pachira is replanted every year. They do this in the spring. Older specimens require replanting every 3 years. The new dishes should be 5 cm wider than the old ones, but shallow. The root of the plant is located on the surface. Therefore, it cannot be deepened into the soil. Mature pachira trees are not replanted.

Features of care

Pachira aquatica can be taken out into the fresh air in summer. You just need to make sure that it has enough light and avoid drafts.

The main thing in caring for the pachira is to keep the trunk solid. If it softens, this indicates rotting of the roots. In this case, remove the plant from the tub. Clears the earth. Unusable roots are removed, the cut areas are disinfected, sprinkled with crushed charcoal. Let it dry. Plant in new soil and do not water for at least a week.

Sometimes dark spots appear on the leaves. This indicates that the plant was exposed to drafts or was kept and watered in the cold.

Pachira leaves turn yellow and fall off when the air is not humid enough. They wither and droop when there is a lack of moisture.

Pachira aquatica pests

The leaves and stem of pachira can be damaged by: spider mites, thrips, aphids and scale insects. You need to fight them by spraying with insecticides. They do this not indoors, but take it outside or to the balcony. After all, insecticides are harmful to the inhabitants of the apartment.

The treatment is carried out 2-3 times, repeating every other week. Plants affected by the pest must be urgently isolated from others so as not to infect them.

Use of pachira aquatica

In place of the pachira flower, elongated large green berries are formed. Some sources call their pulp inedible. Others claim that they can be eaten. Each fruit contains up to 25 nut seeds. The seeds can be consumed raw. They can be fried or boiled before eating. The seeds are also ground into flour, from which bread is baked. Prepared from the same powder delicious drink, like hot chocolate. Leaves and flowers are also eaten.

Pachira plants are very popular. They are used to create bonsai. They are believed to bring good luck, health and prosperity to the home. They should increase with each new leaf. The plant has the fame of the money tree. It is believed to bring good luck and prosperity.

Pachira is an exotic plant belonging to the baobab family.

For the shape of the foliage it was called the Guiana or Malabar chestnut, and for the appearance of the fruit it was nicknamed the walnut tree.

Translated from Latin, “pahira” sounds like “fat girl.”

Under natural growing conditions pachira can reach 20 meters in height. When grown indoors, its growth slows down significantly, and ultimately reaches no more than 3 meters. But, at the same time, it branches heavily and the crown can reach a diameter of about 1.5 meters.

Bright green the foliage has a palmate-complex shape and long petioles. In the wild, the pachira flower is very beautiful, narrow, white or yellowish in color, up to 15 centimeters long. The flowers gather in huge panicle inflorescences, see photo:

Plants that are grown indoors, they almost never bloom. The fruits are berries with a woody, olive-colored peel.

They range from 10 to 25 centimeters in length and resemble a coconut in appearance. Inside they are filled with round-shaped seeds, which can be eaten either raw or fried.

The rocky African deserts are considered the homeland of pachira. Under natural growing conditions, some species of this plant can also be found in the jungles of South and Central America. It has now become a very popular indoor plant around the world.

At home, the pachira can also grow quite large, as shown in this video:

To date, more than 20 species of pachira are known. Only a few of them can be grown indoors.

Pachira aquatic

Pachira aquatic, unlike other species, prefers to settle in damp areas. Therefore, there may be no thickening on the stem to collect moisture.

It is also characterized by a wrinkled surface of the leaf blade, which has a rich bright green color. This type of pachira is one of the most common types of this plant grown indoors. Moreover, all its parts are edible.

Silver pachira (Pachira argyreia) is a highly ornamental plant. Its green leaf blades have veins and a silvery pattern and differ from aquatic pachyra only in this way.

This species appeared on sale relatively recently, so it is still less common in home floriculture than others.

Pachira rotundifolia

Pachira rotundifoloa has an unusual structure for this plant. In natural growing conditions, its stems spread along the soil. Unlike many varieties, its foliage has a rounded shape.

Signs and superstitions, feng shui pakhira

Folk signs say that a pachira living in a house cannot be given to someone or given away. If this is done, then in the future the remaining flowers will stop growing and blooming. But, if for some reason the plant still needs to be given away, then you need to take some thing or at least a coin from the new owner.

Feng Shui theory believes that Pachira endows household members with health, luck, wealth and prosperity. Moreover, after the appearance of the next young leaf, all these benefits increase. With the appearance of this plant in the house, positive energy increases, and negative energy sharply weakens, which creates a friendly environment in the family.

Since the pachira flower is a tropical plant, it loves bright lighting.

Therefore, it is better to place it in the western or eastern part of the room.

If it is located on the south side, then during the hottest time of the day it needs to be provided with additional shading to protect it from sunburn.

Pachira is a heat-loving plant., therefore, in spring and summer, the room temperature should be about 25 degrees, and in autumn and winter at least 14 degrees. It does not have any special requirements for air humidity, but responds positively to regular spraying.

Important! Pakhira does not like drafts, which provoke the development of many diseases.

This plant should be watered regularly, but only after the top layer of soil has dried. Pachira should be fed from early spring to late summer. To do this, use complex mineral fertilizers once a month.

To form a beautiful crown of the chosen shape (ball, oval, etc.), you should regularly trim the plant. Drastic pruning is carried out in the spring, and current pruning can be applied at any time as needed.

To give the pachira a more decorative appearance, you can plant several seedlings in one container, remove the lower leaves from them and intertwine them. Of course, this is a long process, but as a result it is possible to obtain very beautiful specimens of this plant.

It is advisable to plant pachira to be carried out in the spring. To do this, you need to choose a low but wide pot, with a diameter slightly larger than the size of the root system.

Important! In a container that is too large, root growth will take a long time, and the green mass of the plant will not develop.

Next, you need to create a light, nutritious soil mixture; you can make it yourself from the following components:

  • Sod land - 2 parts;
  • Leaf soil -1 part;
  • Peat soil – 1 part;
  • Coarse sand – 1 part.

Pachira transplantation is carried out once every 2 years. To do this, use a container no more than 5 centimeters larger in diameter than the previous one.

The pachira plant is a so-called “bottle tree”, having a thicker lower part of the trunk than the others. The bark and wood are separated from each other by a cavity in which water reserves are created. They enable the plant to receive moisture during the dry period, which saves it from death.

Diseases and pests, treatment and prevention

Pachira tree quite resistant to diseases and pests.

But, failure to follow the rules for caring for the plant can lead to spider mites, scale insects and aphids settling on it.

If pests are detected, all parts of the pachira should be washed with soapy water and treated with an insecticide solution.

One of the most dangerous diseases for plants is root rot, which usually occurs during overwatering. In this case, the pachira should be transplanted into new soil, having first removed the affected areas of the root system, and treated the remaining areas with a fungicide solution. In the future, you need to follow the watering regime.

For cuttings At the beginning of autumn, you need to cut well-developed shoots about 15 centimeters long from an adult plant.

They need to be planted in boxes with a mixture of peat and sand. After they take root and new leaves begin to develop on them, the seedlings can be planted in separate containers.

To propagate by seeds, you need to prepare a box with soil, which is used for planting adult plants. Planting material must be fresh, as it quickly loses its viability. The seeds are evenly distributed over the ground, covered with a thin layer of soil and moistened.

The boxes are covered with plastic wrap and sent to a warm and well-lit room. The cover must be removed regularly to ventilate and moisten the plantings.

Shoots should appear within a month after sowing. When the seedlings have 3 leaves, they are planted in individual pots.

Pachiru often called money tree. With proper care, this ornamental plant will delight its owners for a very long time.

The tropical part is the birthplace of this unusually beautiful plant. Central and South America . Pachiru because of its characteristic shaped stem called a bottle tree, but it belongs to the baobab family.

Evergreen smooth leaves grow on long petioles, and flowering begins in June and ends in November, but if conditions change, the onset of this phase may shift. Large flowers have a vanilla scent and are collected in an inflorescence - a panicle.

Photo

Visually familiarize yourself with the flower Pachira Aquatica you can on photo below.

Home care

Pachira Aquatica requires strict care at home.

How to care for Pakhira at home, so that the Pachira Aquatica indoor plant remains attractive after purchase, you must follow a few simple rules of care.

Temperature

For Pakhira during the spring and summer season the best temperature is considered from 20 to 25°C, in winter – about 15°C.

Under such conditions, the trunk will not extend. At the same time, pots with the plant should not be placed near the radiators of the heating system and ensure that there are no drafts, from which it gets sick.

Watering

The watering regime in warm weather is maintained moderate. To do this, the soil in the top layer of the pot must dry out. From mid-autumn to February, watering should be done infrequently, while avoiding the formation of a dry earthen clod. With a lack of moisture, the leaves react with a decrease in turgor, but with an excess of it, the stem can begin to rot. Watering is carried out with warm softened water along the outer edge of the pot without getting onto the base of the trunk or into the pan.

Transfer

Young Pachira being transplanted once a year in the spring, an adult needs it once every 3 years. For replanting, a shallow but relatively wide pot is selected - 5 cm larger than the previous one. The roots of the plant lie shallow, and when replanting the trunk is not buried, as this causes rotting.

Reproduction

There are 2 methods of propagation for the plant:

  • Cuttings, held at the end of August. To do this, the stalk must be cut off with the heel.

    Rooting occurs in warmth and high humidity.

  • Seeds, carried out early in the spring. Seed material should not be stored for a long time, as its germination capacity decreases over time.

    To do this, the seeds are scattered in a wide bowl, practically not covered with soil, and sprayed with warm water.

Lighting

The plant requires intense lighting, otherwise the stem will stretch and the decorative effect will be lost. A certain amount of direct light is allowed, but it is better if it is absent-minded. Pachira grows well on the western or eastern side, but on the southern side it will need shade during the daytime sun.

In summer, the pot with the plant is placed in the garden in a place protected from rain, wind and direct sun. With a small number of bright days in autumn and winter, with the beginning of spring, Pachira is accustomed to more intense lighting in order to avoid sunburn, since direct exposure to sunlight causes damage to plants that are not accustomed to it.

Priming

The substrate for planting is prepared by mixing equal proportions of leaf and turf soil with sand. At the bottom drainage must be arranged, to which it is advisable to add red brick chips and charcoal, which can remove excess moisture from the soil. It is allowed to use ready-made mixtures for palm trees and dracaenas.

IMPORTANT! The plant does not like too nutritious soil and does not need frequent feeding. But it needs a loose substrate with low acidity.

Trimming

The ratio of the height and diameter of a plant trunk is formed due to the influence of external conditions.

Abundant watering and lack of light stretch the trunk, making Pachira look like a simple thin-trunked tree.

The crown is pruned in the spring, removing branches stretching upward. Branching occurs at the cut site, making the crown denser.

As a rule, the purpose of pruning is to give the plant an oval or ball shape.

The height of the tree is regulated by pinching the top, which also stimulates the appearance of side branches. The size of shoots is reduced by pruning as low as possible before a period of intensive growth.

As a result, active branching begins, the crown thickens and takes on a lush appearance. The trunk of Pachira is sometimes formed into a braid by placing several plants in a pot and intertwining them with each other as they grow, removing the bottom leaf.

ATTENTION! When forming a plant of a certain shape, it is important not to damage the crown by tying it too tightly with twine. To fix the braid, it is enough to secure it loosely; over time, the trunks will become thicker, and the shape will be maintained without outside help.

Benefits of the plant

At home, Pachira Aquatica is grown only for decorative purposes; it can also be used to make a bonsai. In their homeland in the American continent, the fruits of the tree are used as food raw, boiled and fried, they grind flour and bake bread, and make a drink. Not only the fruits are edible, but the flowers and leaves are edible.

Diseases and pests

The main pests of Pachira are scale insect and spider mite. Infection most often occurs at low air humidity. The plant is periodically inspected, and if pests are detected, it is treated with Aktara or another product 2-3 times with an interval of 7 days.

When growing a plant you may encounter the following difficulties:

  • Pachira's leaves are turning yellow. This indicates problems with the root system, which may be caused by too deep planting, lack of nutrients in the soil, rotting due to waterlogging or pest damage.
  • The leaves are curling, forming soft brown edges. This occurs at low temperatures or a large difference in night and day temperatures;
  • Branches with leaves wither. This effect can be caused by both insufficient and excessive watering. When the dry soil is wetted or dried after abundant watering, the leaves return to normal.

Useful video

Pakhira home care instructional video:

Conclusion

It will take more than one year for a young seedling to grow into a tall tree.

To do this, you need to be patient and carefully follow all the rules of care.

Over time, Pakhira will become a decoration of the home and a source of pride, becoming the object of close attention of friends and acquaintances.

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Pachira, or, simply put, a bottle tree, is grown by amateur flower growers at home because of its unique bottle-like trunk and luxurious crown, which does not change its bright green color throughout the year. And if you also have a specimen of several plants growing, the stems of which are intertwined in a spiral or in a pigtail, then your neighbors and friends will simply be jealous. Except exotic appearance, is attracted by the relative unpretentiousness of the plant - caring for Pakhira at home will be within the capabilities of any novice gardener.

The tropical regions of Central and South America are considered the homeland of Pachira. In our country, Pachira is classified as a member of the Bombax family (baobabaceae), and in the taxonomy of England it is classified as a member of the Malvaceae family. The leaf blades of the plant resemble chestnut leaves, for which the tree is sometimes called the giant chestnut of Guiana or the Malabar chestnut. Translated from Latin, Pachira means plump - the appearance of the trunk often corresponds to this name. There are other names for this unusual tree. Chinese tree and bottle tree. And in East Asia and Japan, Pachira is called the money tree. It is grown in many enterprises, farms, and private estates, since it is believed that it contributes to the accumulation of capital. Taiwan's economy exports bottle tree to different countries world annually for many millions of dollars.

Pakhira according to feng shui

Feng Shui masters believe that Pachira brings health, luck and material well-being. Each of the five fingers on the Pachira leaf symbolizes its own natural element - metal, water, fire, earth and wood. The formation of another leaf helps to increase family wealth. Growing this wonderful tree in your home will contribute to the formation of a special aura that enhances the effect of positive and weakens the effect of negative energies formed on the principles of Feng Shui.

Features of growing Pachira

The bottle tree grows rather slowly, but under favorable conditions it can grow up to 20 meters in the wild. At home, Pakhira grows up to three meters in height and one and a half meters in crown diameter. The tree trunk is bottle-shaped and widens towards the bottom. There is a cavity between the bark and the wood in which the tree stores water. Young trees usually grow into one trunk. Only when they reach a height of two meters does branching begin. The leaves of the plant are leathery and bright green. They are palmately complex in shape, with long petioles. As we already wrote, they are very similar to chestnut leaves.

Under natural conditions, Pachira is a tall tree with a voluminous crown.

Pachira blooms very rarely indoors. You can only see it blooming in the wild or in greenhouses. Many narrow and long, up to 15 cm, fragrant flowers of white or yellowish color are collected in a large paniculate inflorescence, about 35 cm in length. After flowering, fruits are formed, elongated-rounded, olive-colored, from 10 to 25 cm in length.

Pachira is a non-poisonous plant. It can safely be grown in rooms where there are children and pets. Pachira seeds are edible and can be eaten raw or roasted.

The plant looks especially exotic and beautiful when its stems are braided at a young age or the tree is grown as a bonsai. You can also grow Pachira as a single tree, but then you should know that the formation of lateral shoots and tillering will occur several years later, when the plant grows to the ceiling. Therefore, at a young age, several specimens are planted in one pot at once, and the stems are intertwined with each other in a kind of braids. Flower shops most often sell just such specimens of Pachira - with several intertwined stems. The process of creating such a masterpiece is quite labor-intensive and lengthy, which is why the cost of such plants is quite high.

Types of houseplant Pachira

Pachira Water (Aquatica)

Pachira aquatica (Aquatica)- the most popular type of Pachira in home cultivation. This miniature tree has a characteristic thickening of the lower part of the trunk, the size of which directly depends on the growing conditions. Thanks to this thickening filled with nutritious moisture, Pakhira normally tolerates lack of watering and dry soil in the pot, but excessive watering is contraindicated for it. The dark green leaves of the tree are interesting - complex finger-shaped with a wrinkled surface, shiny and leathery. The flowering period is long, from June to November. Under favorable indoor conditions, flowering can last all year round. Moreover, during flowering, the tree does not shed its leaves, as some of its relatives do.

On a long, up to 35 cm, panicle there are large flowers with many stamens. The colors of the flowers are different - white, pink or pale green. The aroma of flowers is reminiscent of vanilla. The fruits of Pachira are large, up to 25 cm, light green berries, elliptical in shape, which quickly become woody. After ripening, the fruit splits in the center. Inside it are seeds ranging from 10 to 25 pieces. The seeds are covered with a tough brown shell, which is why they are sometimes called nuts. These nuts can be eaten raw, boiled or roasted. You can use them to grind flour and bake bread. In addition, a drink that tastes like chocolate is prepared from the nuts.

Pachira rotundifolia. This species is distinguished by long creeping shoots with rounded leaves. In indoor conditions it is grown as an ampelous plant.

The plant is similar to Pachira aquaticus, the difference is in the leaves - they have silvery stripes.

Caring for Pachira at home

Planting a plant in a pot and replanting

If you purchased Pachira in a store, then upon arrival home, you need to transplant the plant from the temporary container in which you bought it into your pot. To do this, use the transshipment method, which minimally injures the root system. Water the soil in the shipping container well so that the water saturates the entire earthen ball - this will make it easier for you to remove the plant. Prepare a pot (pot, flowerpot) that is wide and not deep, 2–4 cm larger in diameter than the store-bought one. Since Pachira has a superficial root system, when planting, try not to bury the stem of the plant - this can cause it to rot. The third part of the pot should be occupied by a drainage system - expanded clay mixed with broken bricks and charcoal. The soil for Pakhira is prepared from a mixture of equal parts of turf, leaf soil and sand. It should be light, loose, slightly acidic and not too nutritious. A ready-made soil mixture for palm trees and dracaenas, which can be purchased in special stores, is suitable.

If you are planting a Pachira cutting rooted in water, plant it immediately in a small pot up to 12 cm in diameter with drainage and suitable soil. It will grow in this pot while rooting.

It is possible to plant Pachira in a permanent place at any time of the year. However, the best periods for easy establishment of plants are considered to be periods of active plant growth - spring and early summer.

It is worth buying a bottle tree in the warm season so that its root system and tender leaves are not damaged by frost during transportation.

As Pakhira grows, it is transplanted into new, looser pots. More often this is required in the first years of its active growth, once or twice a year. Older plants require replanting less frequently - once every three years.

Lighting and location of the pot

Pachira is a big fan of good lighting. The better the lighting, the more intense the growth of new leaves. But this does not mean that its pot can be placed on a windowsill, through which the sun will shine all day long. A short time it will easily withstand direct sunlight, especially in the mornings and at sunset, but it is better to find a place with bright but diffused sunlight. Let these be window sills on the east or west side of the apartment. On northern windows, if there is insufficient lighting, Pakhira will stretch out and may lose its decorative properties. It will grow well on southern windows only if its foliage is protected from the scorching midday sun.

You can gradually accustom her to the sun's rays, starting with three to four hours a day leaving her in the sun. Then in the summer you can expose it to the fresh air in the garden or on the open veranda without compromising your health and appearance. In winter, if you keep your beauty at a low temperature and minimal watering, it will not stretch during short daylight hours. If you keep it at room temperature in winter, then you will have to place Pakhir in the brightest place in the room so that it does not stretch out and lose its decorative effect. In addition, you will have to increase its watering and use powerful lighting for lighting. Choose a place for Pakhira in the room such that the air movement around the plant is minimal, and the leaves do not get cold air from the window or from the air conditioner.

Temperature

Optimal temperature for home grown Pakhira is considered to have a temperature of 22 - 26 degrees. Celsius. This is in the spring and summer. And in winter the temperature should be maintained within 16 - 18 degrees. Below 15 gr. the flower will not survive - its root system will begin to rot from hypothermia. Pakhira does not like both cold drafts and hot air from heating devices near her pot. The plant does not tolerate sudden changes in ambient temperature. It can be exposed to the open air only when the weather is warm, since the difference between day and night temperatures can cause its leaves to curl and fall.

Watering and humidity

In summer, the plant should be watered abundantly, but not excessively. For irrigation, use settled water at room temperature. Pour water in a thin stream down the sides of the pot, trying not to flood the lower part of its trunk. Bottom watering into a tray is also possible. But, it is important not to allow water to stagnate in the pan - after some time, excess water from the pan must be drained. The next watering should be carried out no earlier than the upper part of the earthen clod has dried well after the previous watering. The plant accumulates reserve water in its trunk and calmly waits for the next watering. But frequent waterlogging can lead to rotting of the roots and falling leaves. In winter, watering must be reduced significantly.

In hot weather, the crown of the pachira should be sprayed daily with clean water.

Pachira is not demanding on air humidity; it easily tolerates low humidity in indoor spaces. Although, in the hot summer, its crown can and should be sprayed daily with clean water from a small spray bottle, but it is advisable not to wet the stem - it is prone to rotting.

Feeding

Pachira does not require special nutritious soil. Feeding is possible only during the period of its active growth - in spring and summer, once a month, with complex mineral fertilizer for decorative deciduous indoor plants.

How to create a trunk-pigtail

Young stems of Pachira have excellent flexibility. This allows for early stage plant growth to create conditions for its future decorative appearance. If you plant two or three Pachira cuttings of equal height in one pot at once, you can create your own original specimen of the plant with an intertwined stem. To do this, well-rooted cuttings are curled in a spiral or braided, and the top is carefully tied with twine so as not to disturb the movement of sap in the stems. While the seedlings do not hold their shape well, they can be temporarily tied with improvised means - rope or twine. When the trunks become older and gain moisture well, they will begin to independently maintain the shape they are given - then the holding ropes can be removed. The plant continues to grow. You remove excess leaves and continue curling the trunks. This procedure must be carried out until the stems begin to become lignified. In areas where the stems touch, the bark can be cut off, then the stems will grow together, and Pachira will look more harmonious and decorative. We warn you that the process of creating your masterpiece will take quite a long time - at least a couple of years.

To make the crown lush and beautiful, in the spring at home they prune the apical shoots of Pachira. The plant will quickly grow green mass and delight you with young bright green leaves.

Reproduction of Pachira

Pachira is propagated using seeds and apical cuttings.

Pachira seeds are produced inside the fruit

Pachira seeds propagate quite easily. They are purchased in special stores. Only fresh seeds will do. They are planted in wide containers on the surface, practically without sprinkling with soil. Spray with warm water from a spray bottle. Cover the plantings with glass or polyethylene. You can use a container with a lid. Maintain a constant temperature within 25 - 27 degrees. Plantings are periodically ventilated and moistened as necessary. Shoots should appear within three weeks.

Pachira cuttings

Propagation of pachira by cuttings has its own characteristics. Cuttings should be harvested at the end of August. They are cut from the tops of the plant shoots. They should be lignified and have a “heel”, that is, a piece of the trunk. In addition, the cutting should have one bud with a leaf. The substrate is prepared from a mixture of peat and sand. The cuttings are planted in containers with a lid or other containers under glass or plastic film - in a mini-greenhouse. The rooting temperature should be between 25 – 27 degrees. Celsius. Humidity should be above average. The greenhouse is regularly ventilated, if necessary, the substrate is moistened and not allowed to dry out. When roots and new shoots appear on the cuttings, they can be planted in their own pots. This will happen in three to four weeks.

The apical cuttings can be rooted in a glass of water. For better root formation, use special preparations - Kornevin or Zircon. Cover the glass with the cuttings with a bag to create a greenhouse effect, place it in a warm, bright place and wait for the roots to appear.

Diseases and other difficulties when growing Pachira

If the rules of plant care are violated, most often Pakhira suffers from the root system and the lower part of the trunk. The stem loses its elasticity and becomes soft. The disease develops at low ambient temperatures and excessive watering. There is no need to spray the plant in a cool room in winter. There is no need to flood the lower part of the trunk when watering. Do not water the plant with cold tap water. Do not allow water to stagnate in the pan. If the surface of the stem nevertheless begins to rot, then the place of rot can be carefully cut out with a sharp, clean tool to healthy tissue. Sprinkle the wound with crushed wood or activated carbon. In case of large-scale damage to the trunk, the plant cannot be saved. We recommend cutting off the top of the plant and trying to root it using the methods described above.

  • With a chronic lack of moisture, Pachira can shed its leaves.
  • If the indoor air is too dry and there is insufficient watering during the hot season, the tips of the plant's leaves turn brown. Adjust the watering of the flower and regularly spray the crown with clean warm water (do not wet the stem).
  • At low indoor temperatures or when there is a sharp difference in night and day temperatures, the leaves of the plant curl and fall off. Find a warmer place for the plant with a constant temperature of 25 - 27 degrees.
  • With a lack of lighting, the stems of the plant become elongated, the leaves become smaller and become faded, and the characteristic thickening at the bottom of the stem disappears - the tree loses its decorative effect. Move the pot to the light or arrange artificial lighting for the flower.
  • If direct sunlight hits a young plant that is not accustomed to the sun, dry light spots may appear on its leaves - sunburn. Protection from midday sun is required.
  • If Pachira's pot is too large or deep, there is a danger of water stagnating in it. Excess soil moisture leads to rotting of the plant stems, they become soft, and the leaves turn black. The root system will begin to rot. The plant grows slowly, its leaves turn yellow and fall off.
  • Pachira leaves turn yellow and dry even when the soil in the pot is clearly insufficiently nutritious. The plant will begin to save nutrients and shed what it considers excess leaves, even though it is evergreen. Feed the tree, or better yet, transplant it into a new, more nutritious substrate.
  • It is necessary to regularly inspect the stem of Pachira. It should always be elastic and hard to the touch. Pressure and softness indicate waterlogging and rotting of the root system. The plant must be removed from the pot and damaged roots must be cut off. The cut areas should be sprinkled with ash or crushed coal. After this, Pakhira is kept for several hours in a shaded place, after which it is planted in a new substrate and is not watered for a week.
  • The appearance of dark spots on the leaves is possible from drafts or when watering with cold water. Remove the pot from a draft and water with warmer, settled water.

Pachira pests

Very often, small white worms - pests - appear in the soil under the plant. For this reason, Pachira may turn yellow, its leaves will dry out and fall off. You can notice them on the surface of the substrate. To remove these insects, you need to water the soil with a weak solution of manganese, and then sprinkle the surface of the substrate with hot pepper or tobacco powder.

Caring for Pakhira at home has its own characteristics that are important to know and follow. We hope that with the help of this article, you will be able to grow this unusual exotic tree at home, and it will decorate your home for many years.